The beginning of each new year in Washington has always seemed to be rather, schizophrenic. In January, we got a few really nice weekends and I was able to go climb in Index in sunny, cold/crisp weather with some friends. Then the rain came back in February and we were stuck indoors yet again. Just a few weeks ago, mother nature decided to surprise us all with some late-season snow. Now that the snow has all melted away, the sun is back out and shining bright as ever; Spring has finally arrived, fashionably late. We’re experiencing an awesomely comfortable 55 degrees, and I can finally climb comfortably in a t-shirt! And on days where the sun is bearing down hard on the south-facing crags of Index, it’s not uncommon to see climbers at the lower walls on climbing without a shirt on… the conditions are phenomenal. It’s times like these that remind us why we put up with all the rain and overcast that the Pacific Northwest is commonly known for.
I haven’t updated this blog in a long time, but I’ve been staying psyched. I’ve been having to juggle between focusing on school, work, and play. Now that I’m done with the Winter quarter, I’m taking the Spring quarter and Summer off as somewhat of a vacation for myself. It’s a relieving feeling, to say the least.
Lately, I’ve been chasing the dry weather whenever I have a free weekend, to climb outdoors. The weekend weather has been taking me to Leavenworth the past few times, and it’s been a blast! I’m getting stronger, I’m sending projects, and overall having more of an adventure every time I go out it seems. I love it!
Placing a nut in a tight spot. This crack was a 10a, but the first few moves were so weird for me, I made it harder than it should have been -Careno Crag
Past the early crux, painful leavenworth cruiser jamming the rest of the way up. I should have taped up…-Careno Crag
Ryan and I waiting for the other party to lower off the next pitch. -Castle Rock
Ryan & Alex cheezin’ -Castle Rock
Me, cruising through easy slab. -Castle Rock
Brought the Scarpas for the descent. -Castle Rock
Givin’ Ryan an onsight belay on Damnation Crack -Castle Rock
Damnation Crack (Old school 5.9) aka burly as fuck. Props to Ryan for leading that one. Starts up with perfect hands, then to fists, then arm bar off-width style or laybacking w/ some dihedral stemming where possible with some heel-toe’ing, to more dihedral face climbing to some slots to finger jam in order to transition out of the awkward dihedral/off-width climbing, then to a run-out chimney that gets your calves super pumped… I can’t believe they gave this route 2 stars, it was the best burly climb I’ve done ever so far! -Castle Rock
Alex rappin’ down. Early-season weather as you can see! -Castle Rock
Anyway, I’m off to Index to climb tomorrow, and I am PSYCHED!!!! Here’s the plan.
1)Godzilla/City Park/Slow Children.
2)Rattletale 3 pitch link-up.
3)SS Ultrabrutal/Tunnel Vision link-up.
4)Climax Control redpoint.
I hope we do at least 2 of those tomorrow (would be SO SICK to do them all in a day,) depends on time and route/crag traffic. Eatin’ a big dinner tonight and getting plenty of sleep. Pretty psyched. Gotta train for Red Rocks! Gotta practice being fast for The Warrior/Cactus Connection link-up!! Oh yeah, I forgot to mention that…
I’ll be in Red Rocks, NV April 4th through the 8th, climbing some multi-pitch stuff. The real deal, man… I can’t wait to be 2000′ up summiting the top of the various climbs we’re doing!!! Red Rock Rendezvous happens to be on the 5th-7th, but I hope we don’t get much traffic on our routes… regardless though…
I can’t wait for pitch 3, it won’t be my lead, but DAMN that rock looks beautiful, fucking amazing.
\(>_<)/ I’M SO PSYCHED!